From a City Talk column in 2009, French food to go on Broughton Street:
On my first anonymous trip, I tried a tartine ($7.99), which is defined as a “French open-faced sandwich.” The relatively thinly sliced bread was covered with an unusual combination that included duck confit, pecans and caramelized onions.
The rich flavors were balanced just right.
The menu changes daily – maybe even several times a day – depending on what sells, what’s fresh, and what co-owner and chef Herve Didailler wants to whip up in his large kitchen.
But expect to find some combination of tarts, tartines, salads, heartier entrees, side dishes and desserts like madeleines, brioche and fresh ginger fruit salad. (On that first trip, I was tempted by a beautiful curry dish and a side of raisin rice.)
While Papillote might specialize in to-go orders, I enjoyed my first meal at the communal table that seats as many as eight.
There’s room for a couple of other small tables and maybe even a few seats outside. Those may come in due time, according to co-owner Ann Marie Apgar, but for now the focus is providing the best possible service to the customers who come to the counter.
Apgar’s background is in interior design, with special expertise in sustainability and energy conservation. With that resume, she was especially happy to work with Melaver Inc. on the build out of the bright, airy cafe.
Well, I found out via Papillote’s Facebook page today that Chef Herve and Ann Marie have sold the business — including the recipes — to a new owner who takes over on Monday. It’s possible that there will little or no change, but Papillote diehards sure seem upset today.
Given my day job at Armstrong, I haven’t been nearly as flexible at lunch time as I used to be, so I confess I haven’t eaten at Papillote in ages. But it seems to be bustling every time I walk past. There were years when I complained routinely about the lack of French cuisine in Savannah; Papillote has helped fill that niche gloriously for the past four years.
Here’s hoping the new owners can figure out how to make a great business even better — or at least keep it just the same.
A great photo via Facebook: